Tsukubusuma Shrine

Tsukubusuma Shrine, also called Chikubushima Shrine, stands on Chikubushima, an island in Lake Biwa about 6 kilometers offshore from Nagahama. The island is small, about 2 kilometers around, and is designated a national Place of Scenic Beauty and Historic Site. The shrine honors four deities: Ichikishimahime-no-mikoto (Benzaiten), Ugafukujin, the Dragon God, and Azaihime-no-mikoto. According to neighboring Hogon-ji, the present Main Sanctuary was originally the temple's main hall, and only the building was handed over to the shrine when Shinto and Buddhism were separated in the Meiji era.

The Main Sanctuary, a National Treasure, joins a core section (moya) and a surrounding aisle (hisashi) that were built at different times. According to Nagahama City, the sanctuary burned in a fire in 1558, and the part rebuilt in 1567 survives as today's aisles and front porch. The core is said to have been moved here in 1602 by Toyotomi Hideyori, and both years are recorded on ridge tablets. The sanctuary is three bays by three bays with a hip-and-gable roof, karahafu curved gables on the front and rear eaves, aisles all around and a porch at the front, all roofed in cypress bark. It was designated a National Treasure in 1953.

Where the core section came from is not certain. It was long said to be a palace building from Fushimi Castle, and Biwako Kisen's guide still describes it that way. Nagahama City, on the other hand, says the main view now is that it came from the Hokoku mausoleum of Hideyoshi, partly because the Karamon Gate of neighboring Hogon-ji was moved from there. Inside are sliding-door paintings and ceiling paintings attributed to Kano Mitsunobu and pillars fitted with fine metal ornaments, showing the splendor of Momoyama art. However, the inner sanctuary is not open to the public at present.

Facing the Main Sanctuary, the Ryujin Haisho (Dragon God worship hall) juts out from the island's slope toward the lake. Here you can try kawarake throwing: you write your name and a wish on a pair of small clay dishes and throw them toward the Miyazaki torii gate that stands out in the water. If a dish passes through the gate, the wish is said to come true. The Main Sanctuary is linked to the Kannon Hall of Hogon-ji by the roofed Funa-roka corridor, so the temple and the shrine are joined as one continuous set of buildings. The corridor and the Karamon Gate are covered on the Hogon-ji page.

Biwako Kisen boats reach the island in about 30 minutes from Nagahama Port or Imazu Port. All sailings from Hikone Port have been suspended since August 14, 2026. Biwako Kisen says a route from the pier to Hogon-ji, the three-story pagoda, the Karamon Gate, Kannon Hall and corridor, then the shrine and back to the pier can be walked in about 60 minutes. The main hall of Hogon-ji is reached by 165 steep stone steps, so wear comfortable shoes. The island's tabunoki (Machilus) forest is a Shiga Prefecture Natural Monument, and in 2016 Chikubushima also became part of a Japan Heritage designation.